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Northern Virginia Based Dog Trainer Sets Second World Record

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Northern Virginia Dog World Record Holder


Celebrity dog trainer in Northern Virginia, Nicholas White, who is the owner of globally recognized dog training business, Off Leash K9 Training, set his second world record for the most off leash commands performed in just 5 days of training; during his private 5-day training program in Baton Rouge, LA with Belgian Malinois Molly and her owner Paul Burns, White spent over 40 hours working with Molly and Burns – setting a new world record for 14 commands outside and off leash in just 5 days, according to the World Record Academy. During his private 5-day training program in Baton Rouge, LA with Belgian Malinois Molly and her owner Paul Burns, Celebrity dog trainer Nicholas White White spent over 40 hours working with Molly and Burns - setting a new world record for 14 commands outside and off leash in just 5 days.

  Photo: During his private 5-day training program in Baton Rouge, LA with Belgian Malinois Molly and her owner Paul Burns, Celebrity dog trainer Nicholas White White spent over 40 hours working with Molly and Burns – setting a new world record for 14 commands outside and off leash in just 5 days. (enlarge photo)



Celebrity dog trainer, Nicholas White, who is the owner of globally recognized dog training business, Off Leash K9 Training, set his second world record for the most off leash commands performed in just 5 days of training.

During his private training in Baton Rouge, LA with Belgian Malinois Molly and her owner Paul Burns; during White’s 5-day training program, White spent over 40 hours working with Molly and Burns – setting a new world record for 14 commands outside and off leash in just 5 days.

All commands listed below:
1. Come
2. Sit
3. Down
4. Focused Heeling
5. Place
6. Send Away
7.Down From A Distance
8. Watch
9. Stand
10. Heel Command (going to left leg on command)     11.Through Command (going between legs)
12. Touch
13. Sit In Motion
14. Down In Motion

With Molly being a high drive and high energy Malinois, White said that teaching her the “watch” command was the most difficult command to teach her. “Watch” requires a lot of attention and focus from a dog, which is more difficult for high energy dogs.

“Molly was afraid of loud noises, so we spent a lot of time working with her to get her over her fear of fireworks and loud noises.”

On the Net: 
Off-Leash K9 Training’s website

Off-Leash K9 Training’s Facebook page

“The average dog would take weeks or more to be able to master 14 commands outside, off leash, with distractions. An amazing training system; combined with consistency, time, reinforcement, and a highly intelligent dog, Molly was able to master these in only 5 days.

Molly’s owner, Paul Burns, said, “I truly cannot believe everything Molly has mastered in such a short amount of time.”

My Dog Is Aggressive Towards Other Dogs! Dog Aggression Training in Northern Virginia

Dealing with Dog Aggression, ,

dog aggressive dog northern virginia

Dog aggression is something that we literally deal with on a daily basis at our facility in Northern Virginia. If you go to our YouTube channel, you can see countless dog aggression before and after videos.

Just like with our blog on people aggression, we do not base your dog’s severity based off of the number of incidents, but we based it off of the severity of the incidents.

If your dog has been in “a lot of dog fights” or “attacked a lot of other dogs” (as we hear on a daily basis), we always ask about the SEVERITY. Severity of the “attack” is all that really matters, in our opinion.

If your dog has been in “a lot of fights” or “attacked a lot of dogs,” I would ask:
-Did at least two of the dogs have to go to the vet due to damage?
-Did the vet bills of 1 or more dogs total over $1000.00 in damage done by your dog?

If your answer is “no” to both, I would generally say that you do not have a “dog aggressive” dog. Your dog may be a dick, but I wouldn’t say that he or she is necessarily aggressive. What people do not realize is that is VERY easy for your dog to do damage (punctures) to another person or a dog; therefore, if they are “getting into fights,” but they are NOT doing damage, this is generally by the CHOICE of your dog. They could have easily done damage if that was their intention. So, your dog is showing great restraint and bite inhibition.

Also, it may not necessarily have been YOUR dog’s fault. Maybe another dog challenged him, postured up on him (etc) and you just didn’t notice this, and your dog reacted.

So, I would say that your dog is generally safe with other dogs, he just may not get a long with all dogs he meets. Here’s a big secret that many people do not realize, “YOUR DOG MAY NOT LOVE OR GET ALONG WITH EVERY DOG THEY MEET!”

Let me say that again, “Your dog will probably not like every dog it meets.” Shocking, right? Why is that true? You socialized them a lot when they were young, you do on-going socialization with them, etc. Let me put it to you differently, were you raised well, did you have a lot of friends growing up aka were you well socialized growing up? If you answered, “Yes,” then should it be safe to assume that YOU like every single person you meet? Ah hah! There you have it! It’s really that simple.

So, to get back to the main point, your dog’s dog aggression. From a training perspective, if your dog has not: 1) put two dogs in the vet or 2) given vet bills over $1000.00, we would say that your dog is definitely workable and can be taught to be better behaved and proper interaction.

If your dog HAS met two of these standards, I would generally say that your dog would not be safe around other dogs, regardless of training. We can still give you CONTROL over your dog with other dogs in their presence. Meaning, we can generally take your highly reactive dog who is going out of his way to attack another, and give you a dog that will stay in a heel, sit, down, place (etc) while another dog walks by without reacting. With that said, I still wouldn’t ever TRUST them with another dog, you just have control over them with other dogs around.

So, this is a good measuring tool to see if your dog’s dog aggression is fixable or just manageable. I would also strong encourage reading my blog, “Dog Aggressive Dog Training.”

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-Nick White
Owner/Founder
Off Leash K9 Training

My Dog Bit Someone Unexpectedly! Dog Bite in Northern Virginia

Dealing with Dog Aggression, Dog Behavioral Issues, ,

As the highest rated dog trainers in Northern Virginia, we deal with a wide variety of people and dogs on a daily basis. We are known for our high-level of obedience training; however, one common issue we also deal with is aggression in dogs (towards people and other dogs).

When dealing with aggression, the owners are almost always in a frenzy, stressed, and find themselves and their dogs hiding away from people and society. One thing that we commonly hear in aggression cases (mainly with people) is, “There was no warning sign, he just jumped up and bit the guy.”

What they are saying is, “There were a lot of warning signs, but none “I” noticed.” Once we really start breaking down the incident (how, what, where), then we can generally easily formulate a “why.”

Say for instance, a scenario that we may hear is, “I had a friend come over, out of nowhere, he jumped up and bit him.”

*Note, I say “him” because my experience shows me that generally dog bites tend to happen more on men than women*

I almost never find a dog bite to be “that” cut and dry. All dogs have what we refer to as a “bite threshold;” meaning, under what circumstances does it take for me to react with a bite. If you think about it, many people have this same “fight or argue threshold.” You do, I do, and every one of your friends and family have this. Think about this for a minute to help you better understand what I mean.

Do you have a friend who gets upset far quicker than you? Do you have a friend or family member that the smallest thing can set them off and they are ready to fight or punch someone? Do you have a friend or family member who can take A LOT of abuse (physical or mental) and they still keep their composure and remain calm?

If you answered “yes” to any of these, you now see that EVERYONE has a different amount of “pressure” before they react in a certain situation, some it takes very little and some it takes an enormous amount. Also, you see that people react DIFFERENTLY once this threshold is met. Welcome to your “threshold.”

Now that you understand the point I am trying to make (if you did not initially), dogs have this same threshold for reacting and HOW they react, just like with people.

So, you see the chart I illustrated below? This is to give you an example of how a dog doesn’t normally “just bite” someone. Generally, when we actually break down the event, the dog’s background or temperament, and the sequence of events that led up the bite, we can see what actually occurred.

Again, to jump back to the initial call or email that, “I had a friend come over, out of nowhere, he jumped up a bit my friend.”

After discussing their dog with them, we are able to see what “actually happened.” So, here is an example conversation below:

“Well, Rex can sometimes be shy/sketchy around new people. He also has growled at us on rare occasion if we push him off the couch or try to take his ball. He has also growled at the vet when they clip his toenails or mess with his paws. However, Rex has never bit anyone! I cannot believe he would do this!”

Then, I begin to break down the series of events that took place which led up to the friend being bit.

“Rex was laying on the couch, had his ball between his paws, and was just laying their playing with this ball and Mark (stranger) walked in, sat down on couch beside of Rex, and started petting him. Then, he went to move Rex’s paw so he could throw the ball for him and that’s when Rex just bit him out of nowhere.”

Do you all see what just happened? It was a bunch of minor events that normally gets a reaction out of Rex; however, all of these events came together in one scenario in order to create “the perfect storm.”

He didn’t like when the stranger came in (gave him anxiety), then he sat down next to him on the couch (which owner acknowledged he can be territorial), then he moved his feet WHILE Rex had a ball (again, both things the owner knew Rex doesn’t like).

Again, this is a very generic scenario; however, this is generally what dog bites break down to. For the severity of the reaction and the bite, I would recommend reading my blog on “How Fixable Is Your Dog’s People Aggression?”

So, it is YOUR responsibility as a responsible pet owner to find out what (if any) your dogs triggers are, get them addressed, and ensure that they never come together to create “the perfect storm.”

If you need help, contact us at:

www.offleashk9training.com
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-Nick White
Owner/Founder
Off Leash K9 Training

Northern Virginia Dog Bite

My Dog Is Aggressive Towards People: Trainers Dealing with Aggression in Northern Virginia

Dog Behavioral Issues, Dog Training General, , ,

Dog Trainers for People Aggression

At our Northern Virginia dog behavior training facility, we deal with dogs who are aggressive towards people on a regular basis.

One thing that everyone asks is, “Can you fix my people aggressive dog?” That’s a very tricky question to answer until we really start working with your dog.

First, you must understand WHY your dog has aggression towards people: abused at a young age, lack of socialization at a young age, or bad breeding (genetic predisposition)?

I would say about 90% of the cases is lack of proper socialization at a young age; unfortunately, this is sad because this is the EASIEST and most preventable thing to do with your dog (that is 100% free and cost-free). We will discuss proper socialization and desensitizing your dog to “trigger points” in a different blog.

We (as in Off Leash K9 Training) do have a classification system that tells us the likelihood of being able to completely fix (or address) your dog’s people’s aggression.

We base this system NOT on the number of incidents your dog has had, but the “severity” of the incidents. This is the grading scale assuming that your dog has no medical issue.

Level 1 Aggression:
-Growls and barks at people, but has never actually put teeth on a person.

Level 2 Aggression:
-Growls, barks (not necessary), and has put teeth on someone but has never actually punctured a person’s skin

Level 3 Aggression:
-Growls, barks (not necessary), and has left 1-3 shallow puncture marks on someone. *Shallow punctures meaning not deeper than half the length of the dog’s K9 teeth*

Level 4 Aggression:
-Growls, barks (not necessary) and has left 1-4 deep puncture wounds in a single bite. *Deep punctures meaning deeper than half the length of the dog’s K9 teeth*

Level 5 Aggression:
-Growls, barks (not necessary) and has left multiple Level 4-type wounds on a person.

Level 6 Aggression:
-Has severely wounded a person (long hospital stay due to the dog bite) and/or even killing a person.

Dealing with Level 1 and 2 Aggression: This is the easiest type of aggression. At our K9 Training facility in Northern Virginia, we work with this on a daily basis. We are almost always able to completely fix this, give your dog amazing obedience, higher confidence, and stop their reactivity to people. What this tells us is that your dog may be reactive towards people; he/she has learned GREAT bite inhibition (which we will talk about in another blog).

Dealing with Level 3 Aggression: This is still very workable from a training and “fixability” perspective. We have a lot of steps that we will go over with you in order to get this issue fixed and bring the level down until it’s a level zero. This means that your dog has SOME bite inhibition.

Dealing with Level 4 Aggression: This is where it starts to get a little tricky. This is where we will ask about the specific situation and story behind the bites. Generally, with a level 4 aggression biter, it is workable with the family and people living with the dog (assuming the dog did this with someone in the family). Generally, would not recommend this dog interacting with anyone outside of the people working directly with the dog on a daily basis. This is a dog who has A LITTLE bite inhibition.

Dealing with Level 5 Aggression: Okay, at this point, you have a dog that we would classify as a dangerous dog. Your dog has NO bite inhibition whatsoever, and we would say that they are not be trusted around people.

Dealing with Level 6 Aggression: Your dog is a VERY dangerous dog and training would not help whatsoever. Your dog could never be trusted around anyone and would recommend this dog being put down for public safety.

So, if you have a dog in the level 1-3 zone, this is definitely workable, trainable, and more than likely completely fixable.

We would say that level 4 can generally be managed and controlled and a good possibility of fixing this behavior.

If you have a level 5 biter, we would never trust this dog around people; however, we can give you control over the dog. Depending on your specific situations with a level 5, depends on what course of action should be taken with this dog.

If you have a level 6 biter, training would not even be a viable option for your situation.

Hopefully this blog on dealing with your people aggressive dog will help you in having realistic expectations from training. Also, it will help you realize exactly how severe your issue really is from a professional training standpoint.

If you are at a level 1, 2, 3, or 4, I would HIGHLY recommend getting training as soon as possible, as it is very possible (with time) for your dog to move up the aggression scale.

I would also recommend reading our other blog on dealing with people aggression.

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-Nick White
Owner/Founder
Off Leash K9 Training

Introducing 2 Dogs On A Leash: Dog Leash Training, Northern Virginia

Dog Behavioral Issues, Dog Training General, ,

dogs on a leash northern virginia

At our dog training facility in Northern Virginia, one of the situations we have to address on a daily basis is dogs properly greeting another dog.

In order to do a proper introduction, there are some key elements that should be adhered to:

First: Before you let the dogs approach, do NOT assume the other dog is friendly with dogs (or people).  This sounds like common sense, right? You would be surprised.  We train over 65 dogs per week at our facility, many of the dogs are coming to us because of dog aggression, people aggression, etc  We always warn the people leaving, “Do not go up to this dog coming in or let your dog go up to him.”  People see a Golden Retriever, Lab, etc and just automatically “assume” that it’s friendly.  Always ask!

Second: If the owner does give the approval, both of you should do a controlled approach to the each other’s dog. Do NOT just the dogs drag you to each other, remember, you need to show your dog that “you” are in control of the situation.  Put them in a heel and stop them (and make them sit) just a couple feet from each other.  If you are not able to do this drill, then first you must address your dog’s obedience training.

Third: “Break” (release) your dogs and let them start to sniff each other, you should try to keep minimal to zero tension on the leash.  If they feel tension on the leash, this could actually add tension and stress to the dog and make the situation worse.

Fourth: Watch BOTH dogs’ body language!  You should be looking for any aggressive signs from either dog.  You can read about this in detail in my blog on “Dog’s Body Language.”

Fifth: Try to keep the dogs moving a little and slowly around each other. Again, stiffness in dogs can be because of tension or stress.  So, try to keep them moving a little bit, also, this ensures that there is no tension on the leash.

Sixth: I always recommend “one-on-one” approaches with other dogs.  I would never let 3, 4, or 5 dogs meet all at once.  It would almost be impossible for you to control this situation.  You would almost have a “dog park” scenario with multiple dogs, and you can read the blog to see why I think dog parks are a horrible idea.

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I Need To Correct My Dog’s Behavior:Northern Virginia Dog Trainers

Dog Behavioral Issues,

Aggressive Dog Training Northern Virginia

On a daily basis, we hear, “I need to correct my dog’s bad behavior.” If you look at our YouTube Channel you will see literally hundreds of dogs performing flawless obedience.

People contact us daily and say things like, “Your obedience training looks really amazing; however, I just really need to correct my dog’s (insert any behavior issue here). So, can we just work on this or fix this, I don’t care that much about the obedience stuff.”

I always tell people, “I have never in my life seen a dog that was amazing in obedience that had a lot of behavioral issues.” So, they completely go hand-in-hand. Doing a structured obedience training program with your dog will naturally fix many issues; additionally, your trainer can show you how to fix those specific issues while doing the obedience.

Additionally, when using a balanced approach of training (e-collar, prong collar, chock, etc), I am a HUGE advocate against using any of these devices just to “correct” a behavior. This is NOT the proper way to use any of these training tools. By doing this, your dog learns to associate the training device as strictly a punishment, and they will grow to hate/fear it. The dog should learn that these are training tools which gives them freedom, confidence, and a balanced approach of training. They should not learn that they are strictly used for a punishment/correction; unfortunately, this is how many people improperly use these training devices.

So, do not approach training in order to try to correct a specific behavior, you should approach training in order to have a well rounded, confident, happy, and obedient dog. I talk about this more in-depth in my blog post on “Do no make training a last resort.”

At our dog training in Northern Virginia, people find out on a daily basis that our obedience program naturally fixes their dog’s issues; however, we can also address specific issues while doing our dog training program.

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How To Stop My Dog From Chewing Things: Dog Training Northern Virginia

Dog Behavioral Issues, ,

Dog chewing northern virginia

A common question we get at our dog training facility in Northern Virginia is, “How Can I Stop My Dog From Chewing Everything?”

The first thing I have to get you to realize is that your puppy is not doing this out of malice intent.  I hear all of the time, “I cannot believe he chewed through the cord of my flat screen TV.”  Keep in mind, your dog does not know that it’s a 65″ flat screen TV cord that he chewed through, he thought, “Here is a rope to chew on…”  So, for your sanity and your puppy’s well-being, keep that simple fact in mind. 🙂

The good news is, there are a lot of things you can do to mitigate this behavior:

1. “Puppy Proof” your house! It’s always funny to me that when people have a baby, they go through all of these lengths in order to baby-proof the house.  This is done so the baby doesn’t hurt himself or get into something they shouldn’t.  However, nobody does this for their new puppies!  So, “puppy proof” your house!  If your pup is in a room, put up all the shoes, cords, etc.

2.  In my book, “Raising the Perfect Dog: Secrets of Law Enforcement K9 Trainers,” I recommend that the average dog should be in the crate when not directly being supervised until about 1.5 years old.  It drives me crazy when I hear (weekly), “When I got home, my dog had destroyed my couch!”  I always say, “How old is your dog?”  They usually respond with something like, “6-months old…”  What do you expect?!  Would you leave your 2-year old home alone and expect them not to get into anything? No.  I say “average” dog because some dogs can be faster than this, and some slower (just like kids).

3.  You have to teach your pup what is his and what isn’t his.  This is done be exchanging/redirecting.  Anytime your dog has something that he shouldn’t (shoe, cord, sock, etc), tell them “No” and remove it and then exchange it with something that they CAN have.  This is how the dogs learn what is theirs and what is not.  Often times, owners say, “NO” and just remove the object and that’s it.  So, the dog never really learns what they CAN play with.

4.  Obedience Training: This is probably one of the most important and effective things you can do in order to get your dog on the right path.  As I say, “I have never seen a with zero obedience training that was an angel in the house.”  This gives them confidence, correction, discipline, structure, and pack leadership.

5.  Mental and Physical Stimulation: Remember, “A bored dog is a destructive dog.”  If you do not give your dog a job to do, they will become self-employed.  A self-employed dog will always cost you money.”  Work with your dog on obedience, detection, protection, exercise them, etc.  All of these things will greatly reduce your dog getting into trouble around the house.

If you follow these easy principles and steps, you should notice a great reduction in your dog’s chewing/destroying behavior.

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Anytime My Dog Gets Outside He Runs From Me – Dog Training Northern Virginia

Dog Training General, ,

At our dog training facility in Northern Virginia, we hear many stories of how when untrained dogs get outside, they turn catching them into a game. Meaning, when you get close to them, they will run away; often times, this results in the owner having to “trick” the dog in order to catch them (luring them using treats, cornering them, etc).

Dogs display this running behavior when they get outside for a couple reasons.

First, they more than likely escaped when the door opened, this means that you and your dog have not practiced door manners nor incorporated it into your obedience training. You can see numerous videos of us training dogs to do door manners on our YouTube Channel.

Second, if your dog does this, that tells me that your dog cannot be trusted outside off leash; meaning, their obedience training isn’t to the point where you can allow them to have freedom to run outside. Since your dog never has freedom outside/off leash, to run around, play, explore, and sniff around; when they do get outside with this freedom, they don’t want to come back because they are enjoying their freedom to explore.

Third, they turn it into a game. Your dog knows you are trying to catch them, so they just turn it into a fun game. Fun for them, but not you. They let you get close, they run back, they let you get close, they run back.

Lastly, generally when your dog escapes and you DO catch them, you usually punish them somehow. So this really reinforces to your dog, “Do not get caught or go in.”

Fixes For This Behavior:

This is simply an obedience training issue, that’s literally all it is. Obedience training completely fixes this issue and prevents it from ever happening.

First, your dog now does door manners, so they don’t just run out of the open door.

Second, they can be outside, off leash, and have freedom on a daily basis; therefore, being outside off leash looses it’s “fun” appeal, because it’s a daily occurrence. The dogs we train at our dog training facility in Northern Virginia are literally outside, off leash, and running around freely on a daily basis; therefore, them being outside and “free” isn’t a new fun adventure for them.

Lastly, they come on command every single time you call them, so you never have to worry about having to chase them.

If you find yourself chasing your dog outside, I would recommend finding a qualified trainer in your area that specializes in off leash obedience.

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How To Stop My Dog From Running Out The Door – Dog Training Northern Virginia

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dog runs out northern virginia

On a daily basis at our dog obedience training facility in Northern Virginia, we work with dogs so they stop running out of the door.

This is what we call “door manners.”  In my opinion, teaching your dog door manners is essential for numerous reason, you will see I discuss this in my blog on Pack Leadership.

Importance of Door Manners:

Pack Leadership: It teaches your dogs that you are the first one to do everything.  You go inside first, you go outside first, you go  up the stairs first, you go down the stairs first, etc.  This is a very simple thing you can do to help show pack leadership with your dog.  As I explain to our clients, “You never see pictures of ducks lined up and the mother is in the back of the line.  You never see packs of lions and the biggest alpha lion is behind all of the  small ones.”  Why? Because it’s very basic pack leadership, the alpha male and dominant member is always in the front.

Manners: Doing door manners does just that, it teaches them manners.  There are few things I hate seeing more than a dog literally almost knocking someone down trying to go out the door before them (or in the door).  This should never be acceptable for you or your dog.

Safety: By doing door manners, you have taught your dog that “just because the front door opens, does NOT mean you are free to run out it.”  So, when you incorporate door manners in your obedience training they become desensitized to the door opening; therefore, it prevents them from running out it like many dogs do.

Did you know that in 2012, approximately 1.2 million dogs were killed from being hit by a car?  Many of them from running out of the front door or chasing something into the street.

ANYONE who has trained with us, has seen us incorporate the door manners into our training, we literally do this with every single dog we train.  That’s how important door manners is to us, we do it with 65 dogs per week.

I have included just a few clips of our door manners training in the video below; however, if you look at our YouTube Channel, you will literally see this in over 200+ of our videos.

 

 

Solution:

If you do not have access to a really good obedience training program, this is something you can start doing at home on your own.  Put your dog into the sit position and “slowly” open the door, as soon as he jumps up, shut door and put him into the sit again.  Repeat this until you get the door all the way open, then release him.  If you do this “every single time” you come to a door, I can assure you within a few days you will see a huge difference in your dog’s door manners.

Initially, you will feel this is very tedious, because they will probably get up a lot; however, just stick to it.  Each time you do it, you will find that you are having to make them sit less and less.

The biggest key is never let them win!  As I say to our clients on a daily basis, “You must be more stubborn than your dog, as soon as you let them get away with it, you just taught them that it’s acceptable.”

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Solution to Dog Barking in Crate – Dog Training Northern Virginia

Dog Behavioral Issues, ,

dog barking northern virginia

At our dog training facility in Northern Virginia, we always get asked about problem solving for their excessive barking dog.

Seemingly, often times the dogs are displaying this behavior while locked in their crate/cage.  Generally, this is a common sign of Separation Anxiety; additionally, many of these dogs try to Escape Their Cage, as well.

One of the most important things to do is never let your dog out of the crate “while” they are barking or whining.  If you let your dog out of the crate while they are actively barking or whining, you have just taught them, “When I bark and whine, this door opens.”  This is one of the biggest mistakes that owners make on a daily basis.  We realize that an excessively barking dog can be very annoying; however, you must wait them out.  Just wait until they are quiet, “then” let them out. You want to reward the positive behavior, not the negative behavior.   Again, if you let them out while they are barking, you have just taught your dog that barking is what releases them from their crate.

Solutions:

One of the biggest solutions for this behavior is obedience training.  At our dog training facility in Northern Virginia, this is a very common behavioral issue that we deal with almost daily.  Utilizing whichever dog training method you have been using, correct this behavior.  By giving the dog a correction when the negative behavior is displayed and rewarding the positive behavior, your dog quickly learns to outweigh the pro’s and con’s of the situation, just like a person does.  For example, we use the “off” command at our dog training facility, “off” is used to correct any unwanted behavior (barking, jumping, digging, etc).

A very simple solution for an excessive barker is getting a No Bark Collar.  These are amazing devices that work wonders for  dogs (and their owners).  The one I recommend is the Sport Dog SBC 10R or the Einstein Bark Collar.  A bark collar is a collar that your dog wears that automatically corrects them when it picks up the dog barking (vibration and audible detection built-in).  When the dog barks it gives a subtle correction, if they bark again, a higher level correction, and then it repeats.  These collars work amazingly well for some of the worst barkers.

Bark collars are a win-win for everyone! It’s a win for the dog because they cannot bark, and by them not being able to bark they cannot get themselves worked up and frustrated.  It’s a win for you because you (or neighbors) do not have to deal with an excessively barking dog for prolonged periods of time.

So, if you have a dog who is constantly barking and driving you and your neighbors crazy, look into getting obedience training and a no bark collar for your dog.  You will not regret it.

 

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